Open tuning chord reference

Open C Tuning Chord Shapes: A Practical Starter Chart

Open C tuning is C–G–C–G–C–E from the 6th string to the 1st, and the six open strings already sound a C major chord — so every chord you add is a movable shape. Barre all six strings at one fret and you get that fret's major chord. Lower only the 1st string by one fret and the same shape becomes minor. Add the 5th string three frets above the barre and it becomes a dominant 7th. That is the whole system: one barre shape, two small changes, and the charts below give every position from the open strings to the 12th fret.

Free in your browser. No account, no paid upgrade, no app download. Audio is processed in the browser for tuning feedback.

Set open C first — and watch the 2nd string

Every shape on this page assumes the six strings are in open C. Five of the six strings move down or stay put. One does not.

StringStandard EADGBEOpen CDirection
6th (lowest)E2C2Lowered
5thA2G2Lowered
4thD3C3Lowered
3rdG3G3Unchanged
2ndB3C4Raised one semitone
1st (highest)E4E4Unchanged

The 2nd string is the one to slow down on. In standard tuning it is B; in open C it is C, which means it is tuned higher than it was, not lower. If it lands on A#/Bb instead — a semitone below C — every shape on this page will sound wrong, and the mistake is easy to make because the other four moving strings all go down.

The open strings of open C sound a C major chord, so you can check your work by ear before you press anything. Play all six strings together and listen for a settled major chord with no rough edge in it.

Which shape do you need?

Pick what you are trying to play. Each card names the shape family and the exact rule behind it.

A plain major chord

  • Rule: Barre every string at one fret. The fret you barre names the chord.
  • On the chart: Open strings are C, fret 2 is D, fret 5 is F, fret 7 is G.
  • Why it works: The 6th, 4th, and 2nd strings are all tuned to C, so a barre puts the root on three strings at once, and the 1st string lands on the major third.

A minor chord

  • Rule: Hold the major barre and lower only the 1st string by one fret, so it sounds a semitone below the barre.
  • On the chart: Barre 2 with the 1st string at fret 1 is D minor, and barre 7 with the 1st string at fret 6 is G minor.
  • Why it works: The 1st string is the note that makes the chord major. Dropping it a semitone turns the third into a minor third and leaves the rest of the shape untouched.

A dominant 7th

  • Rule: Hold the major barre and fret the 5th string three frets above the barre.
  • On the chart: Open strings with the 5th string at fret 3 is C7, and barre 7 with the 5th string at fret 10 is G7.
  • Why it works: The 5th string is G, and three frets up from the root is the flat seventh that turns a plain major chord into a 7th.

C, F and G in the key of C

  • Rule: In open C the I–IV–V is the same shape at three positions.
  • On the chart: Open strings for C, barre at fret 5 for F, barre at fret 7 for G.
  • Why it works: Nothing about the hand position changes between the three chords. Only the fret moves, which is why open C is a comfortable key for songwriting and slide.

Something higher up the neck

  • Rule: Every shape on this page is movable. Move the whole shape and the chord moves with it.
  • On the chart: The barre at fret 12 is the same C major chord as the open strings, one octave up, and the same relationships hold all the way along the neck.
  • Why it works: None of the shapes here depend on an open string, so nothing breaks when you move them.

Open C chord chart: every position

Read the fret, then play the shape. Everything sits between the open strings and the 12th fret.

Major shapes

ChordShape
COpen strings, no barre
DBarre at fret 2, all six strings
D#/EbBarre at fret 3, all six strings
FBarre at fret 5, all six strings
GBarre at fret 7, all six strings
ABarre at fret 9, all six strings
A#/BbBarre at fret 10, all six strings
C (one octave up)Barre at fret 12, all six strings

Minor shapes

ChordBarre fret1st string
C#/Db minorFret 1Open
D minorFret 2Fret 1
D#/Eb minorFret 3Fret 2
F minorFret 5Fret 4
G minorFret 7Fret 6
A minorFret 9Fret 8
A#/Bb minorFret 10Fret 9
C minorFret 12Fret 11

Dominant 7th shapes

ChordBarre fret5th string
C7Open stringsFret 3
D7Fret 2Fret 5
D#/Eb7Fret 3Fret 6
F7Fret 5Fret 8
G7Fret 7Fret 10
A7Fret 9Fret 12

Sharps and flats are the same fret here — D# and Eb are one position, so read whichever name you use. The names change; the frets do not.

Why one rule set covers all of it

Every shape on this page comes from what each open string is doing in the chord. Once you can name that, you can build a chord that is not on the chart.

StringOpen noteRole in the chord
6th (lowest)C2Root
5thG2Fifth
4thC3Root
3rdG3Fifth
2ndC4Root
1st (highest)E4Third
  1. The 6th, 4th, and 2nd strings are all C, so a barre across them puts the root of the chord on three strings.
  2. The 3rd and 5th strings are both G, so a barre across them puts the fifth on two strings.
  3. The 1st string is the only E, and E is the major third of C. That single string decides whether the chord is major or minor, which is why moving only that string changes the whole chord.
  4. Because the barre carries the root, the chord is named by the fret you barre, not by a shape you memorized.

Because the 5th and 3rd strings sit on the same note class, the shape has room to move one of them without disturbing the others. That is the space the 7th shapes use.

Learn these in this order

  1. Set the six strings to C–G–C–G–C–E and confirm the 2nd string is C, not A#/Bb. Play all six strings and listen for a clean C major chord.
  2. Barre at fret 5. That is F. Use the side of the index finger, press just behind the fret, and let the finger stay close to the fretboard.
  3. Barre at fret 7. That is G. You now have C, F, and G — the I, IV, and V in C — from one shape at three frets.
  4. Lower only the 1st string one fret below whichever barre you are holding. Barre 7 with the 1st string at fret 6 is G minor. The rest of the hand does not move.
  5. Add the 5th string three frets above the barre. Barre 7 with the 5th string at fret 10 is G7. This is the shape that carries most blues, folk, and rock progressions in open C.
  6. Move the whole shape up or down the neck to transpose. The shape does not change; only the fret does.

What usually goes wrong

  • Tuning the 2nd string down instead of up. It goes from B to C, a semitone higher. If it sounds like the shape is wrong no matter what you do, check that string first.
  • Squeezing the barre harder than the strings need. Extra pressure bends a string and pulls it sharp, so the chord reads out of tune even though the open strings were in tune a moment ago. Press only until the string touches the fret cleanly.
  • Bringing standard-tuning shapes along. A shape you know from Standard EADGBE has no reason to produce the same chord in open C, because the intervals between the strings are different. Start from the chart instead of from memory.
  • Reading the strings as if they were standard tuning. The 5th string is G here, not A, and the 2nd string is C, not B. Shapes built around the 5th string as a root will not land where you expect.
  • Expecting a set of open chords. Open C gives you exactly one open chord — C major. Everything else is a shape you move, which is the point of the tuning.
  • Leaving the 7th on a chord that wants to move. A dominant 7th pulls toward the chord a fifth below. It is a passing colour, not a home chord.
  • A 2nd string that keeps dropping right after you tune it up. That is a tuning-stability problem, not a chord-shape problem. The restringing and tuning-stability checklist on this site walks through it in order.
  • A chord that sounds sour while every open string reads in tune. That is usually pressure or intonation rather than the shape. The intonation and setup checks on this site cover what to look at.

When open C is not a straight swap

  • Capo. A capo raises every shape on this page by the number of the fret it sits on. A capo at fret 5 with the open shape sounds F, and the charts still read the same way relative to the capo.
  • Twelve-string and extended-range instruments. The target notes above name six strings. Instruments with more strings or paired courses need their own string list, so work from the instrument's actual string count rather than assuming six.
  • A different string set. Moving an instrument into open C changes the tension on the neck and the feel under the fingers. Whether a particular set suits a particular instrument is the maker's question.
  • An instrument that has not been played in a while. Older strings read inconsistently and a moved instrument goes out with the room. Retune, give it a day, and retune again before deciding anything is wrong.
  • An instrument that needs setup work. If the tuning itself is fine and the instrument still plays stiffly, rattles, or will not hold, that is a setup question. The intonation and setup-order walkthrough on this site covers the order to work in and where to stop.
  • Vintage, repaired, or unusually valuable instruments. If you are not certain the instrument should carry the change in tuning, stop and have a qualified guitar tech check it before you tune it up to pitch.

Where this page ends

Everything above is chord shapes and tuning. These are the jobs that are not, and no chart makes them safe to guess at.

  • Filing, widening, or smoothing a nut slot
  • Adjusting the truss rod
  • Reshaping or moving a saddle, or working on the bridge
  • Changing the string gauge and re-setting the instrument up for it
  • Working on a vintage, repaired, or unusually valuable instrument

If the manufacturer's official manual describes a procedure you are not equipped for, stop there. Follow that manual for your instrument, or have a qualified guitar tech do the work. A setup costs far less than a damaged neck.

Tune the six strings before you shape a chord

A chord can only sound as good as the strings under it. Set the six strings to C–G–C–G–C–E first, with extra attention on the 2nd string, since it is the only one that tunes higher than standard. Then play a barre and read the strings again — that tells you whether your finger pressure is pulling them sharp.

External tuner: GuitarTuner.io

Free in your browser. No account, no paid upgrade, no app download. Audio is processed in the browser for tuning feedback.

External tuning chart: GuitarTuner.io

Frequently asked questions

What notes is open C tuning?
Open C tuning is C2 – G2 – C3 – G3 – C4 – E4 from the 6th string to the 1st, written simply as C–G–C–G–C–E. The 6th, 5th, and 4th strings are tuned lower than standard, the 3rd and 1st strings stay the same, and the 2nd string is tuned up from B to C.
What chord do the open strings make in open C?
A C major chord. The open strings give you C, E, and G, so you can strum all six without pressing anything. That is also a quick way to check the tuning: if the open strings do not sound like a settled C major chord, one of them is wrong.
How do I play a minor chord in open C?
Take the major barre and lower only the 1st string by one fret. Barre 2 with the 1st string at fret 1 is D minor; barre 7 with the 1st string at fret 6 is G minor. The 1st string carries the third of the chord, so moving that one string is all a minor needs.
What is the difference between open C and open G?
They are different tunings and the shapes do not carry across. Open C is C–G–C–G–C–E and open G is D–G–D–G–B–D. The open strings of each make a major chord — C major and G major — but the intervals between the strings differ, so a shape that works in one will not produce the same chord in the other.
Do I need a capo to play in open C?
No. Open C is a full tuning, and the charts above cover the chords without a capo. A capo is only useful if you want to raise the whole tuning: placing it on a fret moves every shape up by that many frets, so a capo at fret 5 with the open shape sounds F.
Why does my barre chord sound out of tune when the tuner says the strings are in tune?
Two usual causes. First, pressing harder than the strings need bends them and pulls the pitch sharp, so ease off until the strings are only just touching the fret. Second, check the 2nd string is on C rather than A#/Bb — it is the string most often tuned the wrong way in this tuning. If both are right and the chord still sounds sour, the instrument may need intonation or setup attention.

One shape, three frets, the whole key

Barre for major, drop the 1st string for minor, add the 5th string above the barre for a 7th. Set the tuning correctly first, and everything else follows from the chart.

External tuner: GuitarTuner.io

Free in your browser. No account, no paid upgrade, no app download.